I’m confident that the leaks are all sealed up, though the new side door will still need some work. So, I got to work on the insulation. Check out the video below.

I got the idea for this method from this website. That site is documents a very good conversion, in pictures. I’m stealing quite a few of that dude’s ideas, actually.

Unfortunately, Bonded Logic, the manufacturer of the denim insulation that I am using for the inner and outer layers of my insulation sandwich, doesn’t seem to make the double-foil faced insulation in large rolls anymore. You can only get it in small sheets, probably for small car applications. Still, I was able to purchase some with at least one foil face. In the end, the radiant barrier will still be pretty present and effective.

As we were installing the insulation, I realized that we didn’t need to use as much glue as you see in the video. The rigid insulation holds the denim insulation in place pretty well. As we perfected the method, I started using just a little bit of glue around the perimieter to hold it in place, and used the rigid insulation for a more permanent hold. Hopefully, this will help the insulation radiate heat away from the bus a little better. Radiant insulation works best if there’s an air gap. There should at least be a little bit of a void to allow it to work its magic. Also, I intend on using white Bus Kote paint on the roof to help with radiating heat away from the bus. In the end, I think the final product will do just fine. As for keeping heat in the bus, that should also work out well. There will be an air gap built into the walls when I install the studs that will be the anchors for all of the rest of the installed bus features. There shouldn’t be any thermal bridges once the inside paneling is put in place.